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“The level of dissolved CO 2 has a direct influence on the bubble size,” he says, “because bubbles grow through diffusion of CO 2 from the liquid phase to the gas phase into the bubble.”
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The more dissolved carbon dioxide, the more fizzy a wine will be when poured-and the larger the bubbles will be. The most important factor in the experience of sparkling wine’s sparkle, Liger-Belair says, is the amount of gas in the wine to start with. Liger-Belair has devoted his career to the detailed study of Champagne and its effervescence he’s published studies with such titles as “Ascending-Bubble-Driven Flow Patterns Within Glasses and Their Impact on Gaseous CO 2 and Ethanol Release Under Standard Tasting Conditions.” Much of this bubble behavior has been extensively studied and documented by Gérard Liger-Belair, a professor of chemical physics at the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne and the author of Uncorked: The Science of Champagne. Photo courtesy of Gerard Liger-Belair, Fabien Beaumont, Guillaume Polidori, and the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne. The flow patterns induced by ascending bubbles within a glass. Because carbon dioxide dissolves more readily the colder a liquid is, a wine served a few degrees warmer will fizz significantly more-and lose its fizz sooner-than if it’s served colder.
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The other crucial factor in the behavior of bubbles is temperature. The more carbon dioxide that’s dissolved in the liquid during winemaking, the greater the pressure in the bottle, and the bigger and more assertive the bubbles are when it’s poured. It has to escape, which it does primarily in the form of bubbles. When the bottle is opened and the wine poured, the liquid suddenly finds itself at normal atmospheric pressure, at which point physics dictates that much less carbon dioxide is able to stay dissolved in the liquid. The wine is bottled at high pressure-90 pounds per square inch is common for Champagne, for example-and at that pressure, the liquid is able to hold a lot of dissolved carbon dioxide. Inside a bottle of sparkling wine, there are no bubbles. In the same way that sugar dissolves more easily in hot tea than in cold water, carbon dioxide gas dissolves more easily in a colder liquid than in a hotter one. The sparkle of a sparkling wine isn’t an added-on frill but an essential part of its character, and the way the bubbles behave exerts a surprisingly strong influence on the way in which the person drinking it experiences the wine. In this sample, she says, the effervescence is “a pleasure texture.” The Blanc de Blancs is richer, suave, and dense, and its much gentler fizz of ultrafine bubbles suits it. The Blanc de Noirs sparkles vigorously on the palate-“joyously,” says Arce-with bright pinpricks of effervescence accentuating the tangy, assertive red fruit. The owner of Air’s Champagne Parlor in lower Manhattan, Ariel Arce, pours a sampling of Ulysse Collin’s terroir-focused single-vineyard Champagnes: a Blanc de Noirs and a Blanc de Blancs.